Many years ago, working as a feature writer for a chain of regional business management magazines, I had the pleasure of interviewing Bryant Keil, the Chairman and CEO of Chicago-based Potbelly Sandwich Shop. Keil spoke in detail of his plan to grow the brand while maintaining a unique character at each and every location. While he has clearly succeeded in expanding the chain—Potbelly now has locations in 18 states and D.C. and has more than doubled its annual revenue since 2007, when Keil and I spoke—whether or not each Potbelly boasts the singular charm he was aiming for is far less certain. In some ways, this is a good thing. Consistency is one of the few strengths of chain sandwiches, and notwithstanding the locally-inspired kitsch lining the shops’ walls, Potbelly’s uniformly above average product is what separates it from its uniformly mediocre peers.
So it’s no slander that the worst I can say of Potbelly’s new Grilled Chicken Mediterranean sandwich is that it tastes like a Potbelly sandwich. In fact (and in contrast with the previous sandwiches featured in this column), it’s pretty good. Built with ingredients not usually found at this price point, the Mediterranean features a spicy hummus, roasted red peppers, feta, artichoke hearts and cucumbers, with optional grilled chicken for an extra buck. If you’re a bold flavor man, as I am, this one will be right in your comfort zone. The sharp artichoke cuts to the front of the flavor profile, while the feta and hummus, integrated by the heat of the toaster, a provide a creamy, spicy foundation. Both the artichoke and hummus can be added to other sandwiches on the menu for a surcharge, but it’s hard to imagine more fitting bedfellows than the roasted red pepper and cucumbers, which round out each bite with a satisfying freshness.
Priced at $7.10 after adding the optional chicken, the Mediterranean is slightly more expensive than an average Potbelly sandwich. While it might be tempting to criticize it as overpriced, as Keil told me during our conversation, “We’re not going to go screaming to the world that we have cheap food or dollar sandwiches. We charge a fair price for a great sandwich.” There are undoubtedly cheaper sandwiches to be had, but given the choice between Potbelly’s Mediterranean and a relatively insipid Cult Cut Combo for a dollar less, it’s really no contest. Sometimes you get what you pay for.
Chain Reactions features sandwiches offered at national chain sandwich shops.
