Turkey Sausage and Egg
Juice Joint Café
1025 Vermont Avenue NW
McPherson Square
$4.25

If the entries in our month-long September Sunrise Sandwich Spree are starting to look alike to you, you’re not alone. With the exception of the alternative protein, today’s entry, the turkey sausage and egg sandwich from the well-liked neo-crunch eatery Juice Joint Café, is virtually identical to the egg sandwiches on 90 percent of breakfast menus. And if the intention of turkey sausage is to taste exactly like pork sausage, then this sandwich completely fulfills its modest goal to be exactly like every other ho-hum breakfast sandwich. I’ve been working on a long-winded showbiz analogy to illustrate the aspirations of different sandwiches. It’s not quite polished, but I’ll trot it out anyway: Some films are made with hopes of bringing home a Best Picture trophy, and other films are made to be low-budget crowd-pleasers and turn the biggest possible profit. There are good and bad examples of each, but comparing “The English Patient” to “27 Dresses” is a waste of time. This applies to breakfast sandwiches in general, and the turkey sausage and egg specifically, in that it would be pointless for me to enumerate how and why this sandwich is inferior to Ted’s Ultimate Breakfast Sammy or the spinach egg sandwich from Tryst. It just isn’t in the same class, and it isn’t trying to be. Compared to others of its ilk, the Juice Joint sandwich is a decent example: the seeded multi-grain bread is wholesome and flavorful, the sausage is inoffensive if undersized and the egg is present but not overwhelming. I’m positive there will be better, more interesting sandwiches featured here before the month is over, but I can’t help lamenting that more restaurants don’t have bigger ambitions.

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